Wednesday, July 30, 2008

waiting



this is 7/7...not bad. i've saved it for last because i felt like it deserved its own space, its own recognition. this might be my favorite photo so far, even though looking at it still makes me ache inside. this is at one of the creches, and the dynamic between this brother and sister was so touching. he relied completely on her--every moment she stepped out the door he would start crying, and in seconds she would be back, pulling him into her lap. they were waiting for the day to end, to go home--but the look in her eyes, the tilt of her head, makes it seem like she's waiting for much more than just that...waiting for the chance to be able to run around, freely, without responsibility, without having to care for another child--waiting for one second when she can do what she wants, not what her brother needs. there is such patience, again the kind i have never seen with children so young. you have to wonder what's going on in her head, if she is imagining something, somewhere, beyond this room with its bare, bare walls.

indian charm

these photos tickle me.
i know that's a very weird phrase to use, but it's the only way i can describe how happy these next 4 pictures make me. they're a random bunch, especially put together, but i think i love them because they represent very peculiar parts of india that i'll miss when i go home. and really, really memorable moments...

the is raju, my friend sonia's little brother, on the bed laughing, and his friend/neighbor with the two doves. i was sitting at their place one day, and this boy just walks in with two doves on him. like it happens every day (oh wait, it does!). they're not even pets, but they might as well be--the boys have spent so much time with them, they're practically trained to do tricks. they were having a blast playing with them--but it made me cringe at moments (raju especially needs to be reminded that they're living creatures...not just paper airplanes). david, if you were in india as a 6 year old, i could definitely see you doing this...

ahhh--after thursday's weekly market in ramdarbar...i stocked up because having an indian woman with you cuts your prices down dramatically. ok, so check it: papaya, cucumbers, apples, green beans, mangoes (2 kinds), onions and pears. guess how much? 77 RUPEES!! (ahem, that is around $2 for everything you see on the table right here)

Mr. Narinder Singh, Guardian Angel of Tourists! Every morning I wait for the bus at a stop 5 minutes away from our house. And this particular morning, Mr. Singh rides up to the stop on his bicycle, hops off, and greets me warmly. Before I even know it, he whips out a photocopied article from The Times of India titled "The Guardian Angel of Tourists," with a photo of himself smack dab in the center. "To hundreds of tourists who come to this city from abroad on a shoe- string budget, meeting Narinder Singh ‘international’ is a blessing...he carries a small writing pad where grateful tourists have showered praise on this good samaritan... and it’s a small paper window to the languages of the world, in hebrew, korean, french, german, japanese, english and in hindi. some have recommended even knighthood for him." i really felt like i was in the presence of a great celebrity--one who was showering me with attention, teaching me hindi words, making sure i knew where i was going. i will never forget how kind he was, with his smile and joking manner, saying, "I am your Indian grandpa, OK?" What an inspirational person, and so representative of India's hospitality. (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/40739486.cms)



the other morning nithin walks into our room at 5:30 am or something mad like that, and tells me that I have to go outside and see the sunrise. i am incredibly confused because to me it already looks like it's light out--and i mumble something and make my way to the top of the house. we are lucky enough to have easy access to our roof. :) beautiful sunrise, the clouds were remarkable.

A Night at the Golden Temple

our most recent weekend trip--Amritsar. last Sunday morning we left at 5:30 am and arrived by 10. i went with kristina, al and victoria, both of which arrived just days before. we stayed for 24 hours, and it was the perfect amount of time to see everything and relax for a bit. it was crazy hot that day, maybe the hottest i've experienced in india! the travel company was great, we saw tons, and it made me realize how long i've been here. traveling with new people throws it in your how much you've learned--how to bargain, how to give directions (i put words together! i knew how to say "straight" and "a little"--so can you believe that i communicated to our auto driver that we needed to go a little farther forward?!), what to eat, how to deal with people staring at you...

the people of Amritsar LOVE foreigners. i spoke to pauline about this, and she agrees--for some reason, they are even more receptive of foreigners than the usual indian, who is already quite friendly. it was CONSTANT smiles and handshaking and people asking to have their photo taken with us, and (my favorite) people handing you their babies (to hold, to have their picture taken with you and so on). everywhere we went there were people willing to help us out, recommend places to go, point us in the right direction...

people in line to get into the Golden Temple, the Harmandir Sahib--a Sikh temple (or gurudwara). it is known as one of the oldest ones that exist in india.

The Harmandir Sahib is considered holy by Sikhs because the eternal Guru of Sikhism, the Sri Guru Granth Sahib (the holy literature), is housed in the temple. its construction was intended to build a place of worship for men and women from all religions to come and worship God equally... [Photo taken by Sander--it's a beautiful shot]

Really cute baby.

Jallian Wala Bagh--this memorial commemorates the 2000 Indians who were killed or wounded, shot by the British on April13, 1919 while participating in a peaceful public meeting. this was one of the major incidents of India's freedom struggle.

a guard at the Wagha Border, the one shared by India and Pakistan. we were trying to decide if his hat is made to resemble a fan or a peacock (for the record, Nith claims that female peacocks are called peahens...). i swear he noticed i was taking photos of him and thus he was going for the model pose.

as i said, it was deliriously hot, but we were there for over 2 hours. mainly sitting in the blazing sun. and the actual retrieving of the flags didn't that long at all, just a lot of guards walking funny back and forth and chanting. but it was the atmosphere that was so, so cool--it was punjabi rock concert meets military ceremony. we sat on our side with music blaring, women and teenage girls especially dancing like crazy in front of the crowd, cheering and yelling. on the other side, the pakistanis weren't dancing, i think, but definitely cheering, too. it was like the two sides were competing to see who could be loudest...i did join in on the dancing, it was hilarious--these girls are so into it! what a great way to celebrate a country...

it was jam-packed with people, we met a really nice american med student, and a TON of israelis. we sat in the VIP/foreigner section, which was rather amusing in and of itself.

this is the silver temple, a hindu temple also in amristar. very beautiful as well, and there was also music playing inside, loads of flowers and sweet offerings and lights, children running around, singing. i kept on thinking about how this is how religion should be-joyful, celebratory, full of gratitude and exaltation, not guilt and pressure and compensation.

we spent the night at the golden temple...which was definitely memorable. there are hundreds sleeping on the floor, entire families. we slept at midnight, and at 2 am they woke us up to offer rose-scented water. i think a bit later, we had to pick up and move because they were washing down the spot where we were--prayers started at that point, playing over the speakers. then at 4:40 am, one of the Sikh men in full garb (spear included) woke us up again. it was crazy, but there was already a huge line formed outside the temple.

money shot!! (hah, no pun intended, since it is covered in gold) the inside of the temple was really beautiful as well (i feel like im overusing words like beautiful, unbelievable, amazing...), but the reflection really makes it so unique compared to other temples. and cool at night due to the breeze and the water--which counts for a lot in india.

day camp

a different kind of camp than the one us ex-girl-and-boy-scouts are used to, but still lots to do and see...i've described the agp camps already in another entry, but i wanted to include some of the most recent shots i took at them.

natural lighting wins. it ended up with such a red glow, but i really like the contrast of the red tones and her blue salwar suit.

concentrating--especially the girl in the middle, her eyes are so intense.

we interviewed this young mother before we knew she would be in the camp. i honestly think she is one of the most beautiful women i have ever seen--just an incredible smile and it is so evident that she absolutely adores her (adorable) baby girl.

because the camp was held at a school, there were always kids running about. im not nearly as exciting as, say, our blonde-haired, over 6' friend Sander...but still they find me fun enough as a foreigner. these kids were so great, wanting to know my name and giggling loads.

patient baby, waiting for camp to be over.



another young mother. i think there's such grace in her pose, if a little longing. i'm riveted by some of the emotions written on their faces, and i honestly can spend minutes staring at these pictures, trying to figure out what they're saying.

if you noticed, i said earlier i was leaving at 11 am, and it's already 11:30 am now. it's been raining, yesterday and today, so guess what? both the recruitment drive AND the hiv/aids workshop has been postponed. turns out college students rarely, rarely go to class at all when it rains, so...we would have no audience at either.

cornell has a lot to learn from india. i think if we followed suit, i would maybe go to 5% of my classes...

taj mahal, anyone?

so, i suppose my trip in india would not be complete without the documentation of our visit to the taj mahal in agra. to be honest, i didn't have very high expectations--i never do when it comes to this type of thing. you know its going to be cool--but don't ever count on it being life-changing or anything. but it was, as many say, breathtaking and beautiful, and i definitely was at a loss of words for how incredible it was.

it was also an awesome, awesome weekend because my friend kristina and i met up with mitch, teju and amy, friends who are working in chennai for the summer building up an NGO called the shared element. ah--i cant stop telling people how amazing their work is. we had such a great time, messing around, doing cartwheels at the taj, eating mangoes on our rooftop, meeting people, wandering about...



our first view of the taj mahal from the agra fort. there is a ridiculous amount of history and stories and intrigue when it comes to this place and the people who lived there. like sons locking up their fathers (who happen to be emperors...), overthrowing each other, etc. and so on...

also at agra fort. as our tour guide akash described it to us, this one garden encompasses the three great loves of the mughal emperors--also known as the 3 'W's: wine (they grew grapes here), walls (the fantastic architecture), and women (you are viewing the remnants of an ancient brothel). i laughed for quite a while when he told us this...

ta-dah!! we went in the afternoon, and it was packed--right up until it closed. ok, yeah, it peeved me that the foreigner rate is 750 Rs and the Indian rate is like 20...but it was, of course, worth it. i wasn't so taken by the size or the value of the marble and all the semi-precious stones inlaid into it as much as i was impressed by the time, effort, detail, concision, and thought put into it. It combines Persian, Turkish, Indian and Islamic architectural styles--I wasn't expecting to see Arabic all over the Taj, but it was gorgeous. The building and surroundings are perfectly symmetrical...perfectly.

Amy, I hope you're not going to sue me for this, but I'm going to quote you here because you did the best job ever summarizing the best parts of the taj. here, to be super clear, this was written by amy jackson, one of the most lovely people i've ever met, with (truly) the voice of an angel and a personality to match:

"There's perfect symmetry over the entire 5-acre plot or however big it is, and the domes are mathematically perfect, and the minarets lean outward just enough to not destroy the center in event of an earthquake, and there are optical illusions in the stonework (PS, we got to visit the workshop of the guys whose great-great-400-years-and-fourteen- generations-ago-great grandfathers did the original stonework... they're not only still doing that stone inlay work, they're still using the same mortar recipe!) and the garden is laid out according to some Quoranic passage..."



We saw the Taj...yes we did! Hooray! (And Happy 21st Birthday, Mitch!!)

This is on one side of the Taj, a mosque I believe (the other side is the exactly the same, but instead it's a guest house). We made a huge effort to be there at sunset, and it was well, well worth it. I think we spent at least an hour just sitting out by the building, admiring every aspect of it possible.

the next day we took a short detour to Fatehpur Sikri, the abandoned capitol of king akbar. but due to water shortages, they only lived there for less than 10 years before shifting to agra fort. the architecture itself resembled agra fort and the red fort in delhi, so it wasn't that exciting. but the ruins like this one were unbelievable, you could explore every turn and corner to your heart's content (while being careful of some crazy drop-offs). you can see my friend kristina on the upper right hand corner, as tiny as she is!

curent news july 24, 2008

i hate to say it, but i've been rather out of the loop with world news lately. but last week i somehow found myself indirectly entangled in local news here in chandigarh...
i spent the other night at my friend megha's house (oh, to be spoiled by a home!), and in the am i took a peek at the paper.
last wednesday, we were supposed to go to ramdarbar to meet with more teachers for the survey. but my boss called us last minute, literally minutes before i was going to leave the house, and told us to meet her in a different sector for a presentation. my co-worker and i were rather surprised to show up, and to find ourselves in the midst of a political rally.



my boss recently joined the BJP party, the opposite party to the dominant one, the Congress. BJP is a religious conservative political organisation and sees itself as rising to the defense of Indian culture, and Indian religious systems which include Hinduism, Jainism, Sikhism, and Buddhism. Most of my friends and their families belong to the Congress, so all i know about the BJP is more negative than positive. But it does sound like the BJP is hoping to rise up in the near future, and gain control of the Indian government in the next round of elections. (i'm cautious to make comments about the politics of a country I barely know...but this seems like a reasonable statement to make about any political party anywhere) the photo above shows the end of the rally's march, as the police had blocked off the street with that bus. it was pretty amusing to see so many photojournalists perched on top, trying to get the best shot.

anyways, i was frustrated by the fact that our work day had been interrupted due to my boss' personal political leanings. it would have been one thing if she informed me about it, and offered it as a cultural experience (later, that's how she justified it--that it was for me to "see an indian rally")--i'm sure i would have been more than eager to go. but i felt misled and used, for her to utilize her leverage as a leader in an organization to increase attendance numbers for her rally. in general, i had qualms about marching with a group when i knew nothing about what it stood for and what they were fighting. the brief explanation i got from my boss was biased, to say the least, and summarized as "the current government is corrupt." so informative.
it was peaceable, though they did burn an effigy of the prime minister in protest of how the Congress has been running, the rise in inflation, money laundering, and vote scams. (you can clearly see my boss in this photo in the paper)

lower on the same page, there was an announcement about the opening day of our AGP camp! the mayor rolled up in his jeep at the ceremony and stayed for a bit. i think it's funny how casual these events are, but made to be such a big deal. as in, he and the chairwoman of the social welfare board both showed up late, but everyone interrupted the speakers mid-sentence at that moment to welcome the officials. they were then offered coke and strings of marigolds (i think...orange?) for respect...even though they had casually sauntered in 30, 45 minutes late. which is totally acceptable here.
and lastly, this article was front and center, as you can see, on the first page. a tragic story, but not uncommon. a father and brother of a 17 year old murdered their daughter and sister for being pregnant, after she refused to name the father of the baby (the family planned to marry them). it's heartbreaking and unbelievable that a family member could do this--they first hit her with a rock before strangling her with her dupatta, the scarf that women wear with their suits. they then tried to throw acid on her face to conceal the crime and tried to give the impression of rape by untying her pants. the police filed it as an "honor killing."

the father gave the statement, "Why should I repent? I killed her to save my family's honor. I deliberately drank heavily on the night of the incident to ensure that I did not hesitate while committing the murder."

again, think about the us--the extreme, extreme differences. think about juno, how popular and socially accepted that movie was, showcasing a young, sassy teenage girl making her way through her out-of-wedlock pregnancy with the love and guidance of her parents and friends. it's an entirely different world here, where the roles and expectations of girls still hold to strict and fast rules. where one mistake could not only ruin your life, but end it.

edu illustrated

good morning,
prepare for another string of entries--these will be fun though since they're all based off of photos i've been meaning to post. i lost the cord that connects the camera to the computer, so i got all 1400 some photos put on a dvd, and then went through them to see which to show you.
no work yesterday or today (besides writing/research on my own). my boss' brother-in-law passed away, so everything's been on hold. today i was supposed to head off to one of the colleges to help promote AIESEC (we're in the midst of recruitments), but that was postponed. around 11 am, i'll be heading off to run an HIV/AIDS workshop with some @ers, but that's still 2 hours away...
so! 7 entries (count 'em)...here we go.
it has been really awesome to see signs and posters that illustrate the effort, time, and money india is putting into education, especially for girls. these two were both taken at the school where the ramdarbar AGP camp was held.

like you would ever, ever see a sign in the US that said, "a girl child is nation's pride"--not just because it's a grammatically incorrect sentence--but because i'm sure some parent or teacher would claim it as sexism and change it to "every child is the nation's pride" or something like that. it's like the bus seats for ladies only--if you look at it one way, it seems to be favoring women over men, girls over boys. but you have to look at the history, the background, and what has led us to the point of having to make these changes and adjustments and compensations. it also made me very excited to see the attendance count for girls v. boys. in a country where female literacy is around 42% and male literacy is closer to 65%, it's encouraging to see that girls are indeed getting attention and finding their way to school.



this is the program i mentioned in an earlier entry--the topic of a paper i wrote in may for the violence against women (vaw) course. in hindi it means "education for all." The programme aims to achieve the goal of universalization of elementary education of satisfactory quality by 2010. as i said, i've heard mixed reviews about it, and i'm sure both sides of the fence are correct to some degree. it's just so freaking cool to see something like this, after spending hours and weeks reading articles about it, seeing the logo online, looking up stats and numbers. but this? it's real.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

showdown: arranged v. love marriages

this is probably one of the most startling differences between indian and american culture: arranged marriages. ive had some really amazing discussions about it with everyone here--@ers, the women we work with, the other trainees...i think especially to us foreigners, its so far removed from what we know and see and experience.
i cant even count how many times ive been asked if my parents will arrange my marriage for me. and even more so, the number of shocked faces i see when i explain that it is not really that common at all in the US--unless you come from some other country. and even then, us first-generation americans with ancestries of arranged marriages (my grandparents had one), most likely will opt for "love marriages" this day and age.
i am not sure on the stats at all, but to me it seems like arranged marriages are still incredibly common, definitely in the lower class, and even in the middler and upper class, too. that's just been my perception, from the people i've met and talked to.

a couple days ago on the bus i met a law college lecturer, a 30 year old woman named dimple. we practically connected as soon as she sat down, and spent the 30 minute ride talking about the legal stance on domestic violence, how women are treated, what rights they do and do not have. i have her contact info, so i plan to speak with her again about all of these aspects of advocacy.
but what will stick in my head is how free she is, how confident and successful she is as an individual. she is unmarried, and quite proud of that fact, even though her parents are currently looking for a match for her. as she put it, "there's one scientist who studied in australia...another in the US right now, and a few more in india...he needs to have a solid career. i've worked hard for mine, and i deserve an equal in that respect, right?" i told her it kind of sounded like she was husband-shopping, and she laughed and wholeheartedly agreed. but she made it clear that in her case, she'll pick the one in the end--her parents will have a say, and they can give suggestions, but the choice is hers.

in the slums, that's less common...we've heard of stories of girls as young as 9 or 10 being married off by their grandfathers because their families don't want to or can't take care of them anymore. the most common age is easily before 21. this is a stark contrast from the educated class, like one woman i work with. she's 25, and its clear that she'll have the time to first build up her career before she'll get matched by her parents, when she's in her late twenties or early 30's.

a male friend here, my age, made it really clear in one discussion that he will marry the woman his parents choose for him, even if he fell in love with another. i tried to push him a little on this to evaluate what that would mean, the kind of marriage you would have marrying one woman when you, at least emotionally, were invested in another. somehow, by the end of our talk--the question seemed kind of silly. it's a matter of respect for your parents, for tradition--and it's a matter of learning to love the one you marry, not marrying the one you love.

i've heard such interesting reasons as to why it's better than love marriages--in fact, that it's the only way a marriage can be successful. granted, i am no expert on this (and wont be for quite a while!), but its really fascinating.

here are some:
1. when you go into an arranged marriage, you know relatively little about the person's habits and details of how they go about life, compared to someone you've dated for some time. because of this, you have less expectations going into the marriage, and thus you are more willing to accept their weaknesses.
2. the families are compatible. when you marry a person, it's not just them you're marrying, but their entire family. this ensures that the families will get along (or more so than love marriages).
3. money is a major factor in marital disputes. so, by matching the socioeconomic statuses of the bride and groom, the likelihood of fighting over money is reduced.
4. some study has shown that the most successful and satisfying marriages result from introductions made by, first, family members and, second, friends...not some person you meet maybe randomly or you seek out yourself. (i'm always weary of reasoning that starts with, "some study says..." but i thought i might as well be all-inclusive)
5. love can be blind. when you're young and in love and all those things, you have a tendency to not see the complete picture and to only focus on the novelty of love and romance.
6. love marriages focus on the now; arranged marriages focus on the future.

the other day i was at a friend's house reading a magazine, one of those inserts that comes with the paper with music reviews, local shows and plays, etc. this one also included an article on ensuring a solid future marriage.
in the corner of the page there was a box titled, "MUST ASK QUESTIONS."

(on the left column) GIRL to boy:
1. Where are we going to stay after marriage? If in a joint family...forever, or only for the initial few years?
2. Are there any servants to clean dishes, wash clothes, cook, sweep and mop etc?
3. Do I have the freedom of choice to work? Will I 'have' to work?
4. What are your views on starting a family? When? How many? Any insistence on a girl/boy child?
5. How often can I visit my parents? Will there be any restriction visiting them or my friends?
(on the right column) BOY to girl:
1. How often am I expected to visit your parents? How do you relate to your parents/siblings?
2. Do you (from your income) or we (as a couple) need to support your parents/siblings?
3. What are your views on starting a family? When? How many? Any insistence on a girl/boy child?
4. Do you like to go out/travel with friends or only as a couple?
5. What will I refer to you as? How will I refer to your parents and other relatives?
(Source: Heart to Heart Counseling Centre)

ok, some of these are pretty standard universal marriage questions--children, supporting in-laws--you would see this in a US magazine article, i'm sure. but to me it's almost comical the differences--the woman should ask if she'll have the freedom to work, to see her family and friends. and the guy has the oh so important question if trips to the movie theatre will only include the two of them, or a few friends as well...and really, what will he call her and her brother and her second cousin and her uncle's wife's great-aunt?
ok, fine, it's not as comical to me as it is aggravating...

moving on...

On July 15, I did 21 interviews.
19 of the women were married.
18 had arranged marriages (the one who didn't had a "love-cum-arranged" marriage).
this takes us to the age factor...

Out of the 21, the number of women married at this age:
23: 1
20: 4
19: 4
18: 3
17: 1
16: 2
15: 1
14: 2
13: 1

do the math. just about half of them married between the ages of 18-20. and half married under the age of 20. um, i'm turning 20 in, like, a month...

I could not get this out of my head for days--Richika, age 20, with a 1 year old son, or Rahana at 25, with 2 children. the next day was even a greater shock, when we interviewed Suman, a 20 year old who has been married for 9 years, mother of two, an 8 year old son and a 6 year old daughter. its incomparable, my life and theirs, but you do it anyways, imagining how someone who has been on this world as long as you can possibly experience such, such a different life. we did an entire section on child brides and arranged marriages in my violence against women class--but it's so different to sit in front of one, and see their face, the infant in their arms. no 9 year old can make a choice about who she marries and when she'll have children and where she will be. for Suman, her life was determined for her when she didn't even know what it would entail.

but times are indeed changing. we've interviewed over 20 unmarried girls in ramdarbar, all around the ages of 19-21, and most of them make it clear that they don't plan to marry for another 3-5 years. and when we speak with the older women, the mothers of these girls, they see the faults in young marriages, and they understand the value of education now and married life later.

and maybe by then, the "must ask questions" will hopefully experience some change, too.

Awareness Generating Program Camps

in the time that i've been here, SURYA has run two awareness generating program (AGP) camps in two slum areas, Vikash Nagar and Ramdarbar. Today is the last day of the Ramdarbar camp, and last week we were there until 6 or 6:30 every night interviewing women who were participating. and generally talking to some awesome, wonderful girls and women.
this is one of SURYA's standard projects, running week-long camps for women above the age of 15 or 16. there are guest lectures and presentations each day, ranging from nutrition and child health to candle making and mehendi lessons to legal aid and domestic violence.
a big goal of it is to raise awareness about SURYA so these "campers" can take advantage of its services in the future if they need them. the AGP camps also hope to instill some inspiration in the women, especially the younger ones, to further pursue some kind of training (i.e. stitching, candlemaking, beauty school, etc.) so they can potentially find work for themselves and become more independent, in the future.

this is the opening day ceremony for the vikash nagar camp--which, in good old indian fashion, started about 1.5 hours late.

at the vikash nagar camp on day 2 or 3--the women were learning how to make stuffed animals. this was the best way i could come up with to confirm that it was a rabbit. they laughed so hard...with me, people. not at me. :p

so many pretty colors! a lot of estrogen...a lot.



there was great diversity there in terms of age, you can see this older woman right next to a younger one of 19 or 20. its incredibly moving to see that not just this generation of teen girls, but older ones, see the value in providing women with more opportunities to be independent and better educated. i love that by simply being there, this women is providing her daughters and even granddaughters a great example and role model.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

education, most exalted

SURYA runs a series of creches in Chandigarh, or daycare centers that are free for the families that use them. the NGO funds them, along with government aid, which gives them some money to provide one small tupperware of free food (porridge, rice, chickpeas, dal, etc.) to each family when they come to pick up their children. some creches actually serve the food to the kids before they go home, because there has been an issue with families taking food home and not giving any to the kids (as awful and unimaginable as that is...it happens).
a few weeks ago we conducted interviews of the mothers as they came to pick up their kids.
as we waited for the moms arrived, i plopped down on the ground with them and instigated some bilingual peek-a-boo and so on...and it was probably the highlight of my week. scratch that--it was for sure the highlight of my week. i miss being around kids so much--that summer working at the childrens' library was a dream when i think back on it. they're just so funny, so sweet, so representative of how simple life should be. simple, easy, happy. when one grape or cookie magically solves everything that is seemingly wrong and unjust in life....


indeed some of them started crying when my supervisors and i entered the creche (the living room of a woman in ramdarbar)...but you win them over eventually. Such big eyes, and they're incredibly curious about everything. we went back 3 days in a row, and by the end of it, i did make some new friends. you know it when they start sharing their slobbery food with you--it's a beautiful moment.

It's hard if you pay attention to the surroundings--the fact that it's literally 15-20 kids sitting on a blanket together, with only 1 pink ball, 1 stuffed animal, and 1 toy car between them. one child actually started playing with a plastic bag and sticking it over his head and i nearly had a heart attack--the woman who runs it told me that initially there were funds for more books, toys, etc. and since time has passed, the funds have fallen away. i think about how much money parents in the us spend to make sure their children have every necessary tool possible to learn and grow from the moment they're born--or even before (baby einstein, anyone?)...books, crayons, blocks, music. but i like this picture because it shows such patience in her little face--not necessarily boredom (though that might be it)--but they just play together in a way that you would never expect of ones so young. without tv, and electronic toys and lights and noises, they turn to each other for amusement and entertainment.

sikh baby--they learn the ways of the turban from a young, young age...
i just love her face in this shot, so honest and open. the mothers we interviewed were all quite young, and already fulfilling lives of motherhood and wifely devotion, so far removed from what woman of the same age are doing in the US and other countries. i am equally in awe of them, the fact that someone 2 years older than me is already raising 2 children, and sad for them, the fact that she most likely never had any other realistic choice in life but this one.

in another creche, there was an 8 year old girl there with 3 other children, her siblings and cousins, all under the age of 3. she was obviously taking care of all of them, making sure they ate their chapati and shared and wiped away their baby tears. gita, who runs the creche, told us that her parents are keeping her from going to school and she's never been at all, because they want to continue using her as a caretaker for the other children. gita confronted the parents about letting this girl go to school and have a chance at an education, but they refuse. an hour after hearing this, i watched as this little girl played mother to three, carrying one in her arms (nearly half her size) and leading the other two out the door by hand. everywhere you see this, children missing the chance to be children, playing out roles that they are too young for, working when they should be learning. without an education, she'll just become another mother and wife herself at a young age, excluding any other chances at a career or a life of her own. and there's so, so little to be done when the parents themselves don't recognize the value of an education, but only of accomplishing chores and housework, preparing their daughter for the life she'll smoothly fall into.

we interviewed a few teachers the other day, and when i asked one what was the single most beneficial tool for these girls to secure a better future, she said "parent involvement and interest." the problem isn't the availability of education, the government has made huge leaps in providing opportunities--but the fact of the matter is that parents in these regions don't follow their child's progress and track their attendance. which means the children, as one teacher put it, see school as a place for a free meal and recess, and that's it.

both the government and individual families have much room to improve--i wrote a paper last may on a nationwide literacy program in india called sarva shiksha abhiyan (ssa), and last week i noticed a poster for it outside the school (someday ill post the photo up) where we were conducting interviews. i asked one teacher about it, and got great reviews, huge compliments for the aid its providing for girl children especially. the next teacher, though, completely bashed it, said it was doing nothing but wasting government money. then i thought about my own opinion of ssa, turned in to my professor on 8.5 by 11 white printer paper, typed in my dorm room at cornell, in a building that most likely spends more money in 1 day than one family does in an entire year in ramdarbar.

how vastly different are my two educations, the one back in ithaca and the one here, this summer, in chandigarh. and even more so, how polar the education is for a creche child compared to a child with the resources of a wealthy country and a stable and educated family. they do nothing to select which group they will belong to, and somehow some of us got the luck of the draw.

Friday, July 25, 2008

a confession.

i just received a fantastic e-mail from a friend, and he made one comment that sums up how i've been approaching my blog: "i'm reasonably sure that this isn't the case, but your blog makes it sound like all you do now is travel around india."
funny enough, i was just thinking today how i wanted to get online, and just write...openly, honestly, without a list of pictures to post, or travel adventures to share--or really any organization whatsoever (novel, really, for me at least). yes, im excited to share where ive been and what ive seen--but ive been also been feeling this push to write about my work lately, even though there are definite reasons why ive been avoiding it.
im not one to be incredibly public about my frustrations and so on, as in, i dont particularly like sharing when im disappointed, or angry, or upset (matan recently commented on how i rarely cry in front of other people). but i have been all of those things lately, to the point where ive questioned why im here, why im studying what i am, and what the hell i am going to do with my life. kind of heavy. kind of.
i dont like to whine or complain, and ive done a decent bit of that lately with some great people here who can bravely tough it out and listen to me...so i didn't think i needed to do it here, too. plus, there's always an issue of pride--not wanting to admit when something isnt as perfect and incredible and educational as you expected it to be.
[for the record, this summer is all that and more--but it didnt feel like it a couple weeks ago]
why i have avoided writing about my work...(i'm still a lister, can't help it)
1. it's a lot. this work. as in, so much happens, so much i see, hear, and experience on a daily basis--its intimidating to put it into words. whereas summing up my travels, weekend trips that last 48 hours, is easy, approachable, enjoyable to blog about (and hopefully, to read about). i spend the day at places like hallo majra and ramdarbar, and some days the last thing i want to do is come home and write about it and think about it and relive whatever happened that day. emotionally taxing is a good phrase to use.
2. for a while, i was getting incredibly frustrated with my work and it wasnt fulfilling at all. not just that, but i was experiencing a lot of guilt. i was tired, i was angry, i wanted to crawl in bed and sleep. and i hated myself for that...in the slums, and anywhere in india generally, there is so much injustice--too much poverty, discrimination, sexism, abuse, corruption, waste...too much to be fixed, too impossible to fix. and what was i doing? research. which is all nice in theory, but in practice...it felt passive. i felt like i was sitting here, looking at all the problems that this country is facing, and doing absolutely nothing to help alleviate them. there was one day where i was just approached by so many begging children--and i hated, hated that i couldn't look them in the face. for the first few weeks here, maybe even the first month, i made an effort to smile at them, to just say namaste or something little like that, so they would feel like they were seen at the very least. but i was having a harder and harder time doing that, since it raises their expectations that you'll give them money--and while i try to give food to them when i have it, i know the problems of giving money to beggars, the ongoing cycle it creates. i love kids, it is completely instinct to talk to them and smile at them--but i couldnt look them in the face anymore, and that hurt so much worse than i ever expected. last summer i was teaching, which was so rewarding, so tangible in its impact--so visible in its effect. research is definitely not like that, though it has power in very different ways. but at the time that made me, in short, feel like a selfish, ignorant, academic type. i know how important it is, but its different when you see the problems, and feel like your time is being spent on observing them, not working to solve them.
3. my mom asked me when i decided i wanted to go to india if language would be a problem. i brushed that off, to some extent, i think--acknowledging it but not fully recognizing it. sometimes it can get extremely tiring to work in an area where people barely speak any english at all, where everything has to be repeated to you, translated over and over again, and you know that you're missing huge amounts, no matter what. i work with some people who have great english and definitely help me out tons, but some days it can be so agonizing to spend 1/2 of your day, sitting around, while everyone around you is talking 100 words a minute. i've learned a degree of patience that i've never had to experience before--and the value of facial expressions, body language, even a second's worth of eye contact. but some days, you dont notice any of those things, and you think about how you are wasting your time, their time, money and energy and efficiency. again, selfishly, under the cover of the so-called, "learning experience." which leads us to...
4. i am personally learning loads--about the luxuries in my life that i take for granted, the privileges that i have, how lucky i am to be surrounded by people who love, respect, and believe in me. to be a woman in a country where i can study whatever i want, marry whoever i want, be whatever i want. but then you think about how it's just a matter of luck, how random it is to placed where you are--and then it returns to point 2, the guilt factor. how did i end up being the foreign student learning about such inequalities, instead of the 20 year old woman experiencing them? (this is the kind of thing that can really keep you up at night)
5. people ask me what im studying. i say: public policy, public administration, NGO management...something like that. i truly believe in the power of NGOs. but after taking that course on non-profit management last spring, i also was well-aware of the weaknesses. and they are blatantly obvious here. there is limited staff, funds, resources, evaluation within the NGO i work for--there is idleness and procrastination and missed deadlines and inefficiency. all of the interns i live with have talked about the pure frustration of working in a country where being late is acceptable, taking massive chai breaks is expected, and the higher-ups get all kinds of breaks, pay-offs, and incentives. it is not all about grass-roots revolutions, sticking it to the man (or woman...), and social change. i am learning that working, having a job, means putting up with obnoxious, aggravating people, and it has bad days and good days, and it is by no means perfect. i am learning what it's like to come home at 8 pm, exhausted, with too much in your head and too much to do and not enough time to just stop and think and appreciate what is around you. when you forget to enjoy very basic things...it's not healthy.
6. our work is conducting a survey. and some of these women lie to us. which is completely understandable given that we are asking questions like, "does your husband physically abuse you?" and her mother-in-law is standing in the room, refusing to budge, even after we have (politely) asked her several times to return in 5 minutes. the survey conditions are not ideal in every case (with some it is), and the perfectionist in me was having the hardest time accepting that this could not and would not result in a perfect set of data. yes, we all took research methods (thanks, evans...), but its surprisingly harder to face in real life when you have poured so much time and energy into being able to eventually have something somewhat reflective of reality.

so, i havent captured it all but maybe you can all get the gist.
but the past week has been incredible.
as in, i am feeling more and more confident by the day that this is, indeed, what i want to do with my life. the details are fuzzy--but the conversations i've had have made it clear to me why there is such a dire need to provide services and support and confidence and encouragement for women and girls around the world, who are lacking the resources and freedoms i had from the moment i was born, into a country that (even with its faults) values the role of the modern woman, into a family that provided me with every opportunity to be educated, into a society that would encourage me to have goals and plans that extended beyond being a housewife and a mother.
i wanted to write an entire blog entry about the fact that one day we interviewed 21 women, and 20 of them married under the age of 21. some as young as 11. here i am, talking to a girl, a peer, of 19 who has been married for 5 years with 2 children. it goes on and on, every day. some wish for a different life and some don't, but they all share the same history of being married off, when they are barely adolescents, and then suddenly the rest of their lives are set in stone.
i think about my best girl friends: smart, talented, beautiful women who are studying, traveling, exploring their interests, their abilities, their capacities to learn and grow. there is nothing at all different between the girls we meet here and the ones that i know from home--it is purely, purely a difference in our environments, our cultures and societies, that have left us in such different places.
it is a rollercoaster ride running these interviews and documenting their lives on one single piece of paper each. one woman will tell us she is incredibly happy and free, her husband is understanding and loving and kind. the next will break into tears after the second question, sharing how she has lived with her parents for the last four years, after years of beatings by her alcoholic husband, and how she has no communication with her 8 year old daughter who her in-laws have kept from her. the next girl will bounce in, all smiles, confident that she will continue her studies, go to college, work until her mid-twenties, and then have her marriage arranged. but the next will sit timidly, a shy 18 year old, who has dropped out of school since she will be married within the year, expected to bear children soon after to fill her time and her parents and in-law's expectations.
some confide, some hide, some gush, some resist. it is inspiring and deflating all at once.
there is such hope in some faces, such resignation in others.
we interviewed teachers for the first time, after over 100 interviews with just housewives and basic laborers. it was exhilarating to conduct an interview in english, not having to pause for one second to get the translation or explanation. the differences between the responses of these educated women and the slum women and girls were so obvious, so glaringly different.
one teacher summarized it: educated women know their rights. they know that they have them.

im not done yet, but this seems to be a good start. i feel so much better, you have no idea. its like massive mental expulsion to the 10th degree.
the status of the work now: we have over 200 interviews that need to be put into the computer, on which i will run very basic stats and produce some visual representations, etc. (alsh, who needs stata when you have excel?? wish you were here. we would have loads more fun than those ps's--and we all know those were fun...) i want to write up some of the anthropological/societal/psychological/cultural observations i've made, hopefully for future use in some paper for a class/credit/personal pleasure in the fall. i know, i just said paper for personal pleasure. my supervisors and i will meet with our boss on tuesday to present the survey results, before developing some intervention programs.
as of last week, i thought that i would no way, no chance, have enough insight to recommend potential programs to help these women...but lo and behold, i actually think i have some valid insight to contribute. this is still shocking to me.

it is exciting and thrilling to feel like i've finally accomplished something, that i finally have something useful to say and provide. but im well aware that maybe in two days ill go back to feeling like i have absolutely no power to affect any change, or anything for the matter, in this great world of ours.
i think that just goes along with being young and naive and maybe even a bit too idealistic. or maybe getting older and more aware and realistic. all of you who are older and wiser can let me know if that just made any sense whatsoever (doubtful...).
i feel extremely grateful right now, extremely empowered, and extremely responsible for utilizing my education and good luck to do something worthwhile in my lifetime.
and that is a lot to wrap my head around.

so you can see why writing about chapati and petting baby elephants is a little less taxing.
but, to that friend who wrote that e-mail...thanks. thanks for calling me out on exactly what i needed to do...

a little bit of personal reflection goes a long way indeed.

p.s. there are a lot of people i miss a lot. i wish i could simultaneously be in several countries at once, giving the kind of attention and time and appreciation to so many people who have stood by me, no questions asked, supported me, and loved me even for all my weaknesses. that is rather vague, but its been on my mind. im sure all of you know who you are, and if you're reading this, and have had enough patience to get through this beast, you are by default one of them.

all my love,
angie

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Khana Network + Good Eats Part I

This entry has been in the works for so long, and I know for a fact it will have at least another part to it by the time I leave for home. But I'm psyched to be posting this entry...tonight.
Right here, right now, we are going to talk....Food. Indian Food. Real Serious Indian Food.
Luke Bonney, you asked how the food was here. I don't think you ever expected to get an entry dedicated to you because of it.
I love food. And yeah, a lot of us like food--but I really, really, really like food. I've not refused one item of food once so far here, and I am proud of it. It has indeed led to some life-changing experiences.
I absolutely love how food and eating and meals are such a huge part of Indian culture, how standard it is to invite someone to have lunch at your place, to constantly offer tea and samosas at any given moment. It is so warm and familial and delicious all at once. And it reminds me loads of Taiwan and China and it makes me miss all of the amazing food I get there, which is kind of masochistic to think about.
So, be prepared to salivate. Chalo on this foodie adventure together.

Let's start with the basics. Chapati, or Roti, is standard Indian food fare, a pancake-crepe type bread used for soaking up curry goodness and much more. Here I am making roti for the first time, managed by Monika, the younger sister of my friend Sonia. You roll out the dough of unrefined flour and water, you cook it on a flat cast-iron (I think) pan, and THEN YOU SET IT DIRECTLY ON THE FLAME OF THE GAS STOVE. This is pure magic. It puffs up, kind of pita-esque, if you do it right. Which I did...eventually.

Fruits and veggies galore--I can't even imagine buying produce from a supermarket, it makes me nervous. This is one of my favorite stands in Ramdarbar, for the prices, the fantastic quality, and because the seller guy here has dreadlocks down to his waist. My favorite deal: 1 kg cucumbers for 10 Rs (25 cents).

Ok, we're getting a little fancy here. First take the naan, the bread made exclusively with the help of a Tandoor oven. This was garlic naan, which is even more delectable. Match that with (from left to right) paneer something (unaged, acid-set, non-melting farmer cheese made by curdling heated milk with lemon juice), mixed vegetables, aloo (potatoes), paneer masala, and chana (chickpeas). It was easily the best meal I had in Jaipur, one of the best in India, and probably in my life generally. And the cost? Around 120 Rs each--$3.

Mangoes deserve their own photo. India KNOWS how to grow a mango. I've never had so many kinds before, in so many ways--chutney, curried, on ice cream, in popsicles, in creamsicles, with a knife, without a knife, squeezed, crushed, juiced, pickled...you think of it, they've done it.

We ate out quite a bit before we got gas finally for our kitchen, and then Ganda and I kind of went all out buying the staples. Words are not necessary, just appetites.

A friend, Sharung, showing off Ras Malai at Sindhi's Sweets, a Chandigarh favorite. Indian sweets are ridiculously sweet--sometimes sickingly so (say that 5 times fast). But I love this stuff, because it has the right balance of sweetness and texture and everything. It consists of balls of paneer soaked in sweetened, thickened, creamy milk. Yum.

Dedicated to Mitch, Tej, and Amy--samosas! Today at our ceremony for work, we bought samosas for like 60 people. 2 samosas for 7 Rs. What a deal...It's usually a mix of potato, onion, spices, and green chili, wrapped in a pastry-like skin and deep-fried, served with a sweet tamarind sauce. Creamy, sweet chai is not necessary, but why would you ever separate such a well-matched pair...

Dedicated to (is this weird I'm dedicating pictures of food to people?) the Kumar family. Dosas, introduced to me by Anurag Kumar, have easily become one of my favorites. It's pretty much a pancake made of lentils, but with the perfect crunch to it. And I also love it for the coconut chutney--gotta learn how to make that before I go...Kristina loves dosas, too. And is rather excited about this one...


Golgapas and Chaat! My introduction to these was in Chandigarh with my friend Shivika at Gopal's restaurant, but the ones I had (shown here) in Delhi with Nilima were the best by far. A North Indian specialty, chaat mainly just means a set of savory snacks, most likely surrounding some fried dough. Golgapas are the round fried ping-pong-looking balls in the background. You tap it with a spoon to create a small hole, fill it with a potato mixture (on its left) and then fill it to the top with a mint water. Getting it into your mouth without leaking mint water everywhere is probably 99.9% of the fun (and tastiness).


Another memorable meal--our first in Chennai. It was 35 Rs. (less than $1) each for all you can eat, though most of us only managed this amount. Papad on the left, a chip-type made out of lentils, then a sweet rice cake, curried veggies, pickles, and rice all served on a nice banana leaf. How economically and environmentally friendly, too!



A break from India, and a trip to France. In Pondicherry, Sander and Ganda and I searched for nearly 1.5 hours for the perfect French restaurant for breakfast, and came across Le Dupleix, after a recommendation by some (surprise) French tourists. The hotel was incredibly posh, and the food was amazing in the open courtyard under a mango tree. Fresh fruit (look at how aesthetic it is!), flaky croissants (plain and chocolate filled), homemade apricot jam, and cafe lattes. This is also known as bliss.


I've been trying to learn as much cooking as I can (can we say @ Iron Chef Revival?), and after I shared that wish with Bibha, one of my co-workers (next to me), she promptly invited me to spend a Sunday with her parents and two sisters, learning how to cook. Pooja taught me how to make matter paneer, paneer with peas in a tomato sauce, while Anu demonstrated the miracle of pooris, or fried rotis. Bibha made the raita, yogurt (curd) with cucumbers and spices, and their mom had made chana (chickpeas) and some other veg dishes earlier in the day. I love yogurt to begin with, and here its served with almost everything to tone down the spice and help with digestion (clever). It was an awesome day, I was constantly in the kitchen, with various people circulating in and out to teach me something new. The meal with well-enjoyed, and the company was so much fun...and again I was welcomed into a family, no questions asked. I swore after that meal that I wouldn't need to eat for another 24 hours--until we went shopping and got chaat at the market...and then some samosas a little after that. Oh, the fun never stops...

Part I: Fin.
Note to self: buy roti pan this week...