Snaps.

Just some favorites from a recent day of work, walking around parts of Hallo Majra, looking for women to talk to. Again, its the colors that strike me, but also how many children are also always in sight, playing or in the corners. See if you can spot them all :)

One of the women that works for SURYA, Sony, is 22 and runs "tuitions" for kids--pretty much like tutoring. We went to her house, and these kids started giggling as soon as they saw me, asking "How are you?" and all the phrases they knew. And they kept saying, "Didi! *hindi hindi* snaps! *hindi hindi*" They love getting to see their own photos, like all the children we've come across, so they were asking me, the "older sister" to take more pictures of them.

"How very Life of Pi of you..."

On June 25, a bunch of us interns went to Pondicherry, a 3 hour bus ride from Chennai (of which I stood the entire time, which was very nice meditation for me…), to catch the tailend of AIESEC India’s June National Conference. Over 300 AIESEC members from, I believe, 15 cities in India were there, to discuss solely AIESEC work. It was a fantastic time, I loved meeting so many of the other interns in India, from every part of the world imaginable. The members, the @ers, were awesome, so full of energy and passion and excitement. It’s the closest I’ve ever been to a national conference, and it wasn’t enough. :) There’s a very palpable buzz when everyone comes together, so much chatter and sharing and mixing, and I learned a lot about the way a different AIESEC country functions, how it works, what their conferences mean to them and the realization of their goals…

It’s incredibly competitive in India, in terms of raising traineeships and bringing in exchange participants, and building contacts and securing investors—so far from what the US does and how it functions. I’m so glad I got that experience, even only for a couple days, because I feel like I have a much more rounded perception of what AIESEC means, as the global organization that it is.

My favorite part was spending so much time with AIESEC Chandigarh, even though they are constantly downstairs in the @Office; I really, really enjoyed traveling with them, going to the beach, having amazing food, talking @...they had a HUGE group, almost 30! Manveer, the Local Community President and a genuinely awesome guy, managed to organize such a huge group, with impeccable organization, patience, and good humor. That takes skill.
They take such good care of us interns, and JNC really made that clear. There’s not much more to say, except I’ve made some incredible friends in the past month, and I am so, so glad that I am not leaving any time soon…(ok, a month. It's all relative!)

Besides the conference, we took full advantage of the beach. I have to say I prefer Tel Aviv and Hong Kong to the one we saw, in terms of cleanliness and general freedom and comfort, but still…the water is the water, and especially when it’s over 100 degrees…not much else matters. I was raised by the mountains, and don't get me wrong, I love them and I miss them. But there is something about a huge expanse of water that is so powerful and poignant and still so peaceful. (No, I did not intend for that mad alliteration, but it's still nice, no?)

Plus we got fresh coconut juice, though it was more exciting in theory than in practice…

As a former French colony, the architecture and cuisine definitely reflects that. We found a couple of lovely French restaurants and cafes, and Sander, our European representative, was in some state of bliss because of it. Le Dupleix was the gorgeous hotel where we had breakfast--probably the most stylish bathroom I have ever seen at a hotel, for the record.

Lots of beautiful flowers and trees as well...I especially like how they look against the clean, solid colors of the painted walls.

Our last morning there, we got up at 4:30 am to watch the sunrise over the ocean. It was hilarious, as in we were rushing, running, to catch it in time. But we were there plenty early, and had a headstart for the rest of the day. In addition to seeing the sunrise, we did various awesome things, like visit an ashram, drink chai, eat amazing croissants, and SEE AN ELEPHANT. Even better...I GOT BLESSED BY AN ELEPHANT! I'm sorry, but that moment was so lifechanging, I can't even begin describing it here. It will eventually get an entry of its own...

Just because, you know, we're young, and happy, and IN INDIA...yippee!!

One of my professors showed us a photo of something like this from her travels in India--there is still a problem with female foeticide and infanticide, so campaigns and posters are made and distributed in the hopes of changing public opinion...and social beliefs that males are of higher value than girl children.

I LOVED the 43 hour journey back to Chandigarh: a 3 hour bus from Pondi to Chennai, then a 36 hour train from Chennai to Delhi, and then another 4 hours to Chandigarh by bus. Trains are just sweet. Everyone in one small space together, so much conversation and joking and fun, learning how to say really useful phrases in Portugese (gostoso...), Bahasa (ganteng...), and Dutch (lekker...), LOTS of chai and cookies and samosas and veg briyani and folding paper cranes and looking out the window and sleeping on sleeper bunks (for me, these things are always easy, perks of being able to fall asleep anywhere...and being short). I have loads of photos from the ride, but these next two I chose because they show the extreme divide in India that is so obvious, and still so disturbing. You see the same lush green in both, but one is covered in trash, the other with none at all...it's an illustration of the huge challenges that face this country in terms of poverty and waste, and yet how it could be if there were the right resources and attention to improve these conditions.

And so we returned back to the north--the country is too big, too overflowing with sights, places, things to do, people to meet...for one trip. Someday, I'll have to make it for India Trip Part II...

30 Hours in Chennai...The Last Time I Saw My Waist.

The saga continues…

On the morning of June 26^th, I took a wicked (I’m not from Boston, true, but this word seems incredibly fitting at the moment, ok? WAIT, close enough--I was born on Cape Cod. I definitely have rights to say wicked...) early flight from Delhi to Chennai. At the Delhi Airport, I met up with some @ friends, Sander and Ganda (Holland and Indonesia, respectively, though these guys, as declared last night at dinner, are self-entitled brothers—lots of love here!), Kirsi and Kristina (Finland and Canada). We arrived in Chennai by 10 am, I think, and promptly found our way to the Tamil Nadu tourism counter for some advice on sights and lodging. I loved that Kristina was kind of dancing to her own tune as she sat there, and the tourism man commented on her happy state of being, and she asked him to “Shake it” and “Show your stuff!”

From there, we took a cab and got our first glimpses of Chennai—big city for sure, not anything too remarkable, but definitely still a cool place (like I said, I’m a sucker for the cities…). This shot was just one taken from the taxi. We found the hotel and crashed, in the way that has become quite standard for our weekend trips.
AKA: How-many-people-can-you-fit-in-one-room-to-pay-the-least-amount-of-money.
It’s a fun game, try it out sometime. (Below, L to R: Kirsi, Ganda, Kristina, me and Sander, obviously Ganda and Kristina look best, hands down.)

After lunch (which was AWESOME--don't worry, it's going to show in a future blog entry...), we met up at the Tamil Nadu Tourism Complex with my friends Mitch and Amy, both went to CU Boulder last year—Mitch and I taught together in China last summer (along with our other buddy Teju).

This is me and Mitch and Amy. In a really random moment. We were waiting for our tour bus, and some Indian guy comes up to us and says, "Children, can you please do me a favor? Please?" Well, first off, children? And secondly, a favor? Kind of sketch. Anyways, it ended up with us posing in a "tourist-friendly auto," while a photographer took shots of us for future promo materials for Tamil Nadu tourism. SWEET, our celebrity status in India has been cemented.

Mitch, Amy and Teju are all spending this summer in Chennai, building and developing an NGO called The Shared Element (link on the right), which is incredibly impressive, innovative, and VERY exciting. Please do take a look at their blog or website, both I’ve included, if you’re interested in the development work they’re helping intitiate in rural villages in Southern India.
Shoutout: you guys are too amazing for your own good. And I can’t wait to see you three tomorrow with , for our weekend trip to the Taj Mahal!!! AHHH!!

ANYWAYS. All of us decided to go on one of those ½ day tours, and it was pretty funny. Our tourguide had rather, um, special English and really liked to yell at us to “Go! Go! Move! 5 minutes only!!” But, hey, I have no qualms about being a tourist—especially when we usually only really get the weekends to bask in its glory. Our stops:

1. Fort Museum-neat relics of British Rule

2. National Museum-beautiful bronze collection of Hindu sculptures

3. Valluvar Kottam, constructed in the memory of Thiruvalluvar, the classical Tamil poet and saint. It's constructed to look like a temple chariot, which is pretty neat. (below)

4. SNAKE PARK--we saw so many snakes and crocs and TURTLES! I mean, it's not a turtle park. But I have a weakness for turtles, especially cute ones...cute ones that sit around ponds in little groups.

5. Kapaleeswarar Temple, which was one of the most memorable experiences I've had in India to date. I met a great newlywed couple who was also on the tour, the wife's name is Monika, though I've forgotten the husband's. When we started walking around the temple, they very naturally began telling me things about Hinduism, and I was eager to listen and had tons of questions. When we reached one part, the middle section of the temple, there's a sign that reads, "No Non-Hindus Allowed"--at this point, I just told them I'd see them later and I thought we'd part at the entrance to the inner area of worship. But Monika was very adamant that I go in with them. I was a bit uncomfortable about doing it, and resisted for a while, but she said that she, as a Hindu, knew that such signs were posted to prevent desecration, not to prevent all people from experiencing the temple fully. She said to me, "Hinduism accepts all people, of all religions. And this temple welcomes all people to worship in it, whichever way they choose." So in the end, I did go in with them. They just told me to be quiet, as I could pass as a Hindu since my Asian appearance could also be taken as East Indian...so as to not cause further problems. I did initially feel a little guilty about it, but soon that dissipated when we entered...
It was so incredible, such a feeling of serenity and peace and calm, quite unlike any temple or place of worship I've ever been to. The air smelled sweetly of incense and there were traces of smoke everywhere, floating around in swirls (or it felt that way!), seen only by candlelight. The fire reflected off all the golden and bronze sculptures of gods and goddesses, wrapped in bits and pieces of brightly colored cloth, arranged in rows and rows with offerings of fruit and flowers laid before them. There was the soothing sound of repeating mantras, cut in once in a while with the ringing of bells, quiet shuffling of bare feet on the stone floor. The priests stood together, 2 or 3 of them, and you went up to them and bowed (for lack of a better phrase--or the correct one), and they bestowed upon you jasmine flowers or fruit and the tikka mark, a smudge of red powder or white ash.
It is hard to describe that moment, but I did feel like I was experiencing some other world, or even a different state of being. I was near speechless when we came out in the fresh air, and all I could do was thank Monika and her husband for giving me such an unforgettable experience. It's truly understanding part of culture in a way you thought you would never get to--with people who are so enthusiastic about sharing it with you. No doubt India knows how to do this so well--the people here just never, ever stop including you, teaching you, bringing you into their lives and giving and showing you as much as they can. Monika and her husband were happy that I appreciated it so much, and I still feel like I didn't fully convey what it meant to me.
From there, we actually left the tour group and walked to the home of Teju's family members to meet him there. I hadn't seen Tej for almost a year, which is RIDICULOUS, because it felt like no time had passed whatsoever...that it had been only weeks since we were in China, staying late and talking about anything and everything, climbing up the great wall (or, is it The Great Wall?), eating delicious bao zi by the side of the street, hanging with Mitch and the other guys...

Dinner was fantastic (Tej and I shared a dessert called, "The Last Time You Saw Your Waist"--no joke! And honestly, you really don't care about anything, let alone your waist, when you're in such creamy, brownie'd chocolate bliss), then everyone hung out for a little bit before the rest of them went back to the hotel. I decided to stay with Tej, Mitch and Amy. And I think we slept at 5:30 am or something, after hours of talking and playing LINK, a game we invented that involves a tennis ball and (awww, so PLC!) teamwork, laughing and sharing and catching up. Teju has some wonderful cousins that I also got to meet--again, Indian hospitality is...beyond belief. They dropped me off at the bus station, where the Pondicherry episode begins!

(Ahh!! I am so psyched to see them again...good thing "again" in this case means "tomorrow"!)

Blast One Month Back: Delhi!!

Fact 1: I am terrible at this blogging bit. I have about 7 drafts OF blog entries in the works. Apologies. And I am officially a month behind (shy of one day, I think).
Fact 2: People who can keep their blogs updated have a gift. I swear, they have some chromosome that allows them to maintain their blogs. I lack that...for sure.
Fact 3: Emma Herzog, one of the most amazing people to exist, has a BEAUTIFUL blog. And reading hers indeed has inspired me to get myself back in blogging shape. SO—tonight will be a marathon of entries, so long as the world wide web decides to run at a decent speed.

We’re going to go ALL the way back to June 21, when I took a train from Chandigarh to Delhi, and was met at the station by my friend Anshul’s mom, brother, aunt and cousin. From the moment they picked me up, we begun the Delhi Experience, family-style, which was a whirlwind 5 days of amazing people, sights, food, family, sari shopping, DOSAS (lentil-based deliciousness that is indescribable) and “Om Shanti Om”—the Bollywood hit of the decade. (note: I got a free copy of it when I got minutes for my cell phone. Ithaca people: prepare, I’ve decided we will indeed watch it and order in, or make, massive amounts of Indian food come August…) I definitely had a different Delhi experience than most, cause mine included none of the hairy hotels, getting lost/cheated by the auto rickshaw drivers, being overwhelmed by the city. Mine included the best tour guides imaginable, so much hospitality and (this is no exaggeration) blatant love and attention, fantastic conversations, constant laughs, and literally being welcomed into a family half way across the world from my home, no questions asked.

It occurred to me there that Anshul and I have been friends for over 14 years or something (that. is. sweet.), and his mom Nilima has watched me grow up all these years through OM (2nd grade, we were such adorable bats) and Junior Great Books and Saturdays hanging out at their house and moving into Cornell 2 years ago...I have known Anshul's brother Anurag before he was even three years old...and NOW HE IS 5'11"!! (I still can’t get over this). He is a great guy, with a fantastic sense of humor—I loved hanging out with him and Anshul’s cousins. Nilima and I also got loads of time to catch up and talk and talk and talk some more…one time we managed to chat while devouring a huge bunch of lychee together in record time. By the end of the trip, I just felt so lucky to know this family, and blessed is a good word in this case, to have all of this come from the fact that Anshul and I met as tiny little kids at Bear Creek Elementary.

I loved being in a family setting again, all generations tossed together, people in and out, visiting each other all the time. Anshul's grandpa and I talked about domestic violence and Indian and American cultures and family norms, philosophy and physics (I KNOW) and Shakespeare and Harry Potter. Anshul's grandma was constantly offering chai and making sure I was fed; she is so, so sweet, and we've already put together some business plans to export her mango chutney to the US and Israel. :)

Delhi reminded me how much I love cities. Chandigarh is a fantastic place to live for a few months, especially as foreign female in India, but Delhi had so much to see and do and experience, so much culture and art and history. I loved the architecture, both the British and Mughal influence so visible in the landmarks, the traffic-filled streets and huge crowds. It’s a shame to me that so many of the other interns have negative perceptions on Delhi as being dirty, chaotic, and a complete mess—but then again, I know that I was really given the star treatment for those 5 days.

Oh, man. A month later, and as I’m writing this I’m getting “homesick” for those aloo paranthas (potato filled pancakes at breakfast) and mint chutney and family dinners and listening to Britney Spears and Madonna in the backseat with the cousins…it was the BEST way to experience Delhi, to see old friends and make some new ones...and I wouldn't have wanted it any other way. So to the Lals and Kumars--until next time!

Not even an hour after I arrived in Delhi, we headed over to the Red Fort, constructed by the Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639. The fortress palace was the focal point of the medieval city Shahjahanabad (thanks, Wikipedia...). Really beautiful, I was the perfect tourist and Nilima was definitely amused by how many photos I was snapping...

I mainly like this for the shadow it created. Check it. (And just wait for the entry about the palaces and forts in Jaipur...)

Again with the colors! I can never, ever get enough of it. I think I may actually get some psychological problems when I return to the US, where people love their white, black, and neutral colors. And let's not even talk about Ithaca come winter...

Taken by Payal, Anshul's cousin, because I really liked the outfits these guys had. If you have a second, click on the photo and ZOOM in to see the HILARIOUS smile this guy has on. And we thought we were being subtle in catching a photo of them...(@Cornell, Largest Club in the World indeed. I got so many compliments on this shirt from the @ers here!)

This was probably my favorite touristy stop we made, at the Bahá'í House of Worship, Lotus Temple. Its design is composed of 27 free-standing marble clad "petals" arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides. The coolest part: it has a natural AC system inside due to the architecture and the pools of water that surround it. How environmentally friendly. :) I don't know much about the faith, but I like the concept a lot. If anyone knows anymore, please let me know--I'd love to learn more about it. It's rather intriguing...

Delhi Art Gallery--YESSS!! And entrance was like 2 rupees!! (that even beats the Met, Annamarie...) I loved this so much, and I'll definitely spend more time there next time. You know me and art museums to begin with, plus we got a sneak peek at the art of Amrita Sher-Gil, which was beautiful, so full on contrast and emphasis and emotion (do look it up). I managed a few sketches in my journal, and it felt so good. I am always amazed at how much I love to do it, and how rarely I do these days...but I was inspired, so I came back that night and made a sketch for Anshul's family of some flowers and a sculpture of a boy. My hand was cramped afterwards, but the feeling of creating something on a single white sheet of paper is irreplaceable (this is where I insert a massive pitch of BLMS pride).

At a family dinner! What lovely people, each and every one of them.

This is definitely one of my favorites, and I'm glad that I remembered to ask for a photo with Anshul's grandparents in them...I think it's a great picture of them, and Anurag as well, because it does (as much as possible in a photo) capture how warm and friendly and fantastic they were to me. :) (thanks again...)

Happy 10th Birthday, SURYA!

So it's been over two weeks since I've written, and that fact alone is probably the most stressful aspect of my life right now. It's so much that there's no way I can even relate it all in chronological order...sorry!
Thursday, July 3, was SURYA Foundation's 10th Anniversary, and it was celebrated with a traditional ceremony of offerings to various gods, etc. For most of it, I was out of the loop, but my boss' husband was kind enough to explain some of it to me after the ceremony. The entire staff was there, and it was definitely great to see everyone together, proud of the work this NGO has accomplished in the last decade. Of course, the ceremony was followed by massive amounts of food and chai...and everyone kept on asking me if the food was "OK." OK? The food is incredible. I am already dreading the kind of withdrawal I will have come August and upstate NY...
Anyways, I'm so happy that I'm able to experience India this way, where I'm included in so much of the culture and rituals--not as a tourist, but as a part of a community. The pictures say a lot, though they don't quite depict how hot it gets when you light a mini-fire inside a room during July in India...

My boss' husband is the man in the white shirt on the right. My favorite explanation that he gave me was that it was a religious ceremony, but rooted in science. Each offering made, whether that be water, flowers, or fire, all represent essentials that we as human beings need to survive. The wood used for the fire is that of the mango tree, because we eat the fruit. Wood from a tree that does not produce fruit, or nourishment, would never be used in this ceremony. A mixture of various herbs were thrown into the fire, so they would disperse into the air, purifying both the air and our bodies as we inhaled it.

It was very peaceful, the sound of the priest's mantras, and everyone joining in, no matter their age. This little girl became a friend of mine, blabbering to me in Hindi and sitting next to me as we made faces at each other. When the ceremony started, she was incredibly attentive, and I was impressed such a small child knew exactly what to do and how to act. As the youngest there, she took the lead in some of the rituals. It was powerful to see traditions being passed down this way, generation to generation.

The SURYA staff, mostly women but also a few college guys who oversee all things computer-related. Most of them don't speak English, or very limited English, but everyone was so, so friendly. I hope to visit a few of the other SURYA sites that I haven't seen yet, including a set of creches, or daycare centers.

Another new friend. Who doesn't love babies. And balloons. And babies playing with balloons.
(Disclaimer: guys, I know some of you are thinking about how I take a ridiculous number of photos of babies. But, please, with this one--they ASKED me to take a photo of the baby. So cut me some slack. Thank you. :p)

More to come! Stay tuned (and patient)...

Making It Down South...

Namaste,
Just a quick update, since I won't be posting anything until after July 2.
Today, I'm taking a train to Delhi to spend about 5 days with my friend Anshul's family.
I've known Anshul since I was 5 or 6, and he's one of the most awesome people you will ever meet. Ever. Out of anywhere. We were neighbors once back in Boulder, then elementary school friends, then OM team members...and then we both went to Cornell! We've grown up together, and we're still growing up together, you could say. Plus, no one else but him can actually quote things I said in second grade...
He's crazy impressive like that.
Anyways, Anshul's family is fantastic and I'm psyched to spend a good chunk of time with his mom, brother, and assorted relatives (Anshul is in Texas for the summer). His grandfather, uncle, and dad have all contacted me, and I feel so lucky to know them all--and be able to experience Delhi with them.
On Thursday morning, I'll fly to Chennai from Delhi and explore it with some other interns. We'll spend Friday through Sunday in Pondicherry, for a national AIESEC conference for all international interns in the country, and also check out the sites. We're taking a train across the country back to Chandigarh from Monday to Wednesday.
Last night, I saw Piyush, a great friend of mine who is from Chandigarh but spent the last year in NYC as an intern. That was so awesome--and hopefully I'll see him again after I return from these travels.
Be well, and talk to you all soon!
love angie
P.S. We have mad plans to hang out at the beach. So excited. :)

Mehndi, Beauty, and Irony

Why, hello again. I know, two entries in one day! IMPOSSIBLE! But today's experience with mehndi (henna tattoos, more commonly known) made me think a lot about my recent conceptions of what is beautiful and appealing and arresting, and those thoughts have been swimming around all day in my head. The wife of the shoestore owner, Sushna, created such incredible patterns on my forearms and hands today, they just evolved incredibly smoothly as they spread across my skin. It was really breathtaking to watch it happen, on me no less, and it was almost hypnotic. But it was definitely art in every sense of the word, and I'm planning on bringing some henna powder back home to mess around with...This is one of the perks of working with women here--I get to take part in all of these cultural, typical female matters of mehndi and threading and chai-making.

But it's also so funny (ironic even...) that I'm currently reading The Feminine Mystique, the book that literally revived the feminist movement in the 1960's by asking women (and men) why Suburbia had turned young females into submissive, domestic, housewife types. And here I am, interviewing women (funny, smart, beautiful ones...) who all are stay-at-home wives and mothers, respected by their families and friends for their ability to cook, clean, and rear children. Of course, this isn't for every single woman--but I've heard women here directly say things about each other that imply that their ability to do certain tasks well reflects their upbringing and character. And while this is true for the US as well, the role of being a homemaker is even more so defined and outlined here in this country.

When I'm in the community at Hallomajra, I can see why it's so valuable for the women to know how to do these things, to maintain their appearance and household to fit a certain standard of beauty and talent. It is what defines them. But on my way to and from Hallomajra, I'm reading about the need for women (especially in the US) to find their individuality apart from domesticity. They're extremely different, but at the same time both cultures in the US and India face this divide--one that has existed for decades and decades, and one that persists even today. It just persists stronger in some places over others--but the role of women in society is so debated in every culture, it seems. Mehndi got me thinking this because I was so enthralled by it--and I was so impressed by it. But at the same time, I think it represents the certain set of skills women are expected or encouraged to have in some societies--a set that doesn't necessarily include assertiveness, political fervor, or stereotypical male traits of power and strength. But characteristics that every person, man or woman, has a right to have if they have it, or if they want to possess it.

But aside from all that, I loved the experience. Sushna has such a warm smile that she's passed onto her daughter, and they both laugh so freely. It was another show of such generosity and hospitality--they were eager to share with me a really special aspect of their lifestyle and history and culture, and I think they enjoyed my reactions as well.

And so it begins...

Such detail!

Backside, a string of flowers.

Sushna, and her adorable daughter Ashna, after finishing.

And taken just moments ago. It took a few hours to dry, and then my arms were covered in mustard seed oil to darken the henna. It'll stay for 5-10 days.

On the topic of beauty and irony--I see incredible shots everywhere in Hallomajra, ironic since its people are so poor in comparison to other parts of the city. Poverty persists, but more often I am in awe at the energy and light and color. For every photo I take, there are probably 20 others that catch my eye, mango sellers or kids or women washing clothes, and I itch to capture it. But it's so critical to remember that this is someone's routine, someone's life...and there must be respect for that privacy. I hope I've been accomplishing that...