Blast One Month Back: Delhi!!

Fact 1: I am terrible at this blogging bit. I have about 7 drafts OF blog entries in the works. Apologies. And I am officially a month behind (shy of one day, I think).
Fact 2: People who can keep their blogs updated have a gift. I swear, they have some chromosome that allows them to maintain their blogs. I lack that...for sure.
Fact 3: Emma Herzog, one of the most amazing people to exist, has a BEAUTIFUL blog. And reading hers indeed has inspired me to get myself back in blogging shape. SO—tonight will be a marathon of entries, so long as the world wide web decides to run at a decent speed.

We’re going to go ALL the way back to June 21, when I took a train from Chandigarh to Delhi, and was met at the station by my friend Anshul’s mom, brother, aunt and cousin. From the moment they picked me up, we begun the Delhi Experience, family-style, which was a whirlwind 5 days of amazing people, sights, food, family, sari shopping, DOSAS (lentil-based deliciousness that is indescribable) and “Om Shanti Om”—the Bollywood hit of the decade. (note: I got a free copy of it when I got minutes for my cell phone. Ithaca people: prepare, I’ve decided we will indeed watch it and order in, or make, massive amounts of Indian food come August…) I definitely had a different Delhi experience than most, cause mine included none of the hairy hotels, getting lost/cheated by the auto rickshaw drivers, being overwhelmed by the city. Mine included the best tour guides imaginable, so much hospitality and (this is no exaggeration) blatant love and attention, fantastic conversations, constant laughs, and literally being welcomed into a family half way across the world from my home, no questions asked.

It occurred to me there that Anshul and I have been friends for over 14 years or something (that. is. sweet.), and his mom Nilima has watched me grow up all these years through OM (2nd grade, we were such adorable bats) and Junior Great Books and Saturdays hanging out at their house and moving into Cornell 2 years ago...I have known Anshul's brother Anurag before he was even three years old...and NOW HE IS 5'11"!! (I still can’t get over this). He is a great guy, with a fantastic sense of humor—I loved hanging out with him and Anshul’s cousins. Nilima and I also got loads of time to catch up and talk and talk and talk some more…one time we managed to chat while devouring a huge bunch of lychee together in record time. By the end of the trip, I just felt so lucky to know this family, and blessed is a good word in this case, to have all of this come from the fact that Anshul and I met as tiny little kids at Bear Creek Elementary.

I loved being in a family setting again, all generations tossed together, people in and out, visiting each other all the time. Anshul's grandpa and I talked about domestic violence and Indian and American cultures and family norms, philosophy and physics (I KNOW) and Shakespeare and Harry Potter. Anshul's grandma was constantly offering chai and making sure I was fed; she is so, so sweet, and we've already put together some business plans to export her mango chutney to the US and Israel. :)

Delhi reminded me how much I love cities. Chandigarh is a fantastic place to live for a few months, especially as foreign female in India, but Delhi had so much to see and do and experience, so much culture and art and history. I loved the architecture, both the British and Mughal influence so visible in the landmarks, the traffic-filled streets and huge crowds. It’s a shame to me that so many of the other interns have negative perceptions on Delhi as being dirty, chaotic, and a complete mess—but then again, I know that I was really given the star treatment for those 5 days.

Oh, man. A month later, and as I’m writing this I’m getting “homesick” for those aloo paranthas (potato filled pancakes at breakfast) and mint chutney and family dinners and listening to Britney Spears and Madonna in the backseat with the cousins…it was the BEST way to experience Delhi, to see old friends and make some new ones...and I wouldn't have wanted it any other way. So to the Lals and Kumars--until next time!

Not even an hour after I arrived in Delhi, we headed over to the Red Fort, constructed by the Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639. The fortress palace was the focal point of the medieval city Shahjahanabad (thanks, Wikipedia...). Really beautiful, I was the perfect tourist and Nilima was definitely amused by how many photos I was snapping...

I mainly like this for the shadow it created. Check it. (And just wait for the entry about the palaces and forts in Jaipur...)

Again with the colors! I can never, ever get enough of it. I think I may actually get some psychological problems when I return to the US, where people love their white, black, and neutral colors. And let's not even talk about Ithaca come winter...

Taken by Payal, Anshul's cousin, because I really liked the outfits these guys had. If you have a second, click on the photo and ZOOM in to see the HILARIOUS smile this guy has on. And we thought we were being subtle in catching a photo of them...(@Cornell, Largest Club in the World indeed. I got so many compliments on this shirt from the @ers here!)

This was probably my favorite touristy stop we made, at the Bahá'í House of Worship, Lotus Temple. Its design is composed of 27 free-standing marble clad "petals" arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides. The coolest part: it has a natural AC system inside due to the architecture and the pools of water that surround it. How environmentally friendly. :) I don't know much about the faith, but I like the concept a lot. If anyone knows anymore, please let me know--I'd love to learn more about it. It's rather intriguing...

Delhi Art Gallery--YESSS!! And entrance was like 2 rupees!! (that even beats the Met, Annamarie...) I loved this so much, and I'll definitely spend more time there next time. You know me and art museums to begin with, plus we got a sneak peek at the art of Amrita Sher-Gil, which was beautiful, so full on contrast and emphasis and emotion (do look it up). I managed a few sketches in my journal, and it felt so good. I am always amazed at how much I love to do it, and how rarely I do these days...but I was inspired, so I came back that night and made a sketch for Anshul's family of some flowers and a sculpture of a boy. My hand was cramped afterwards, but the feeling of creating something on a single white sheet of paper is irreplaceable (this is where I insert a massive pitch of BLMS pride).

At a family dinner! What lovely people, each and every one of them.

This is definitely one of my favorites, and I'm glad that I remembered to ask for a photo with Anshul's grandparents in them...I think it's a great picture of them, and Anurag as well, because it does (as much as possible in a photo) capture how warm and friendly and fantastic they were to me. :) (thanks again...)

Happy 10th Birthday, SURYA!

So it's been over two weeks since I've written, and that fact alone is probably the most stressful aspect of my life right now. It's so much that there's no way I can even relate it all in chronological order...sorry!
Thursday, July 3, was SURYA Foundation's 10th Anniversary, and it was celebrated with a traditional ceremony of offerings to various gods, etc. For most of it, I was out of the loop, but my boss' husband was kind enough to explain some of it to me after the ceremony. The entire staff was there, and it was definitely great to see everyone together, proud of the work this NGO has accomplished in the last decade. Of course, the ceremony was followed by massive amounts of food and chai...and everyone kept on asking me if the food was "OK." OK? The food is incredible. I am already dreading the kind of withdrawal I will have come August and upstate NY...
Anyways, I'm so happy that I'm able to experience India this way, where I'm included in so much of the culture and rituals--not as a tourist, but as a part of a community. The pictures say a lot, though they don't quite depict how hot it gets when you light a mini-fire inside a room during July in India...

My boss' husband is the man in the white shirt on the right. My favorite explanation that he gave me was that it was a religious ceremony, but rooted in science. Each offering made, whether that be water, flowers, or fire, all represent essentials that we as human beings need to survive. The wood used for the fire is that of the mango tree, because we eat the fruit. Wood from a tree that does not produce fruit, or nourishment, would never be used in this ceremony. A mixture of various herbs were thrown into the fire, so they would disperse into the air, purifying both the air and our bodies as we inhaled it.

It was very peaceful, the sound of the priest's mantras, and everyone joining in, no matter their age. This little girl became a friend of mine, blabbering to me in Hindi and sitting next to me as we made faces at each other. When the ceremony started, she was incredibly attentive, and I was impressed such a small child knew exactly what to do and how to act. As the youngest there, she took the lead in some of the rituals. It was powerful to see traditions being passed down this way, generation to generation.

The SURYA staff, mostly women but also a few college guys who oversee all things computer-related. Most of them don't speak English, or very limited English, but everyone was so, so friendly. I hope to visit a few of the other SURYA sites that I haven't seen yet, including a set of creches, or daycare centers.

Another new friend. Who doesn't love babies. And balloons. And babies playing with balloons.
(Disclaimer: guys, I know some of you are thinking about how I take a ridiculous number of photos of babies. But, please, with this one--they ASKED me to take a photo of the baby. So cut me some slack. Thank you. :p)

More to come! Stay tuned (and patient)...

Making It Down South...

Namaste,
Just a quick update, since I won't be posting anything until after July 2.
Today, I'm taking a train to Delhi to spend about 5 days with my friend Anshul's family.
I've known Anshul since I was 5 or 6, and he's one of the most awesome people you will ever meet. Ever. Out of anywhere. We were neighbors once back in Boulder, then elementary school friends, then OM team members...and then we both went to Cornell! We've grown up together, and we're still growing up together, you could say. Plus, no one else but him can actually quote things I said in second grade...
He's crazy impressive like that.
Anyways, Anshul's family is fantastic and I'm psyched to spend a good chunk of time with his mom, brother, and assorted relatives (Anshul is in Texas for the summer). His grandfather, uncle, and dad have all contacted me, and I feel so lucky to know them all--and be able to experience Delhi with them.
On Thursday morning, I'll fly to Chennai from Delhi and explore it with some other interns. We'll spend Friday through Sunday in Pondicherry, for a national AIESEC conference for all international interns in the country, and also check out the sites. We're taking a train across the country back to Chandigarh from Monday to Wednesday.
Last night, I saw Piyush, a great friend of mine who is from Chandigarh but spent the last year in NYC as an intern. That was so awesome--and hopefully I'll see him again after I return from these travels.
Be well, and talk to you all soon!
love angie
P.S. We have mad plans to hang out at the beach. So excited. :)

Mehndi, Beauty, and Irony

Why, hello again. I know, two entries in one day! IMPOSSIBLE! But today's experience with mehndi (henna tattoos, more commonly known) made me think a lot about my recent conceptions of what is beautiful and appealing and arresting, and those thoughts have been swimming around all day in my head. The wife of the shoestore owner, Sushna, created such incredible patterns on my forearms and hands today, they just evolved incredibly smoothly as they spread across my skin. It was really breathtaking to watch it happen, on me no less, and it was almost hypnotic. But it was definitely art in every sense of the word, and I'm planning on bringing some henna powder back home to mess around with...This is one of the perks of working with women here--I get to take part in all of these cultural, typical female matters of mehndi and threading and chai-making.

But it's also so funny (ironic even...) that I'm currently reading The Feminine Mystique, the book that literally revived the feminist movement in the 1960's by asking women (and men) why Suburbia had turned young females into submissive, domestic, housewife types. And here I am, interviewing women (funny, smart, beautiful ones...) who all are stay-at-home wives and mothers, respected by their families and friends for their ability to cook, clean, and rear children. Of course, this isn't for every single woman--but I've heard women here directly say things about each other that imply that their ability to do certain tasks well reflects their upbringing and character. And while this is true for the US as well, the role of being a homemaker is even more so defined and outlined here in this country.

When I'm in the community at Hallomajra, I can see why it's so valuable for the women to know how to do these things, to maintain their appearance and household to fit a certain standard of beauty and talent. It is what defines them. But on my way to and from Hallomajra, I'm reading about the need for women (especially in the US) to find their individuality apart from domesticity. They're extremely different, but at the same time both cultures in the US and India face this divide--one that has existed for decades and decades, and one that persists even today. It just persists stronger in some places over others--but the role of women in society is so debated in every culture, it seems. Mehndi got me thinking this because I was so enthralled by it--and I was so impressed by it. But at the same time, I think it represents the certain set of skills women are expected or encouraged to have in some societies--a set that doesn't necessarily include assertiveness, political fervor, or stereotypical male traits of power and strength. But characteristics that every person, man or woman, has a right to have if they have it, or if they want to possess it.

But aside from all that, I loved the experience. Sushna has such a warm smile that she's passed onto her daughter, and they both laugh so freely. It was another show of such generosity and hospitality--they were eager to share with me a really special aspect of their lifestyle and history and culture, and I think they enjoyed my reactions as well.

And so it begins...

Such detail!

Backside, a string of flowers.

Sushna, and her adorable daughter Ashna, after finishing.

And taken just moments ago. It took a few hours to dry, and then my arms were covered in mustard seed oil to darken the henna. It'll stay for 5-10 days.

On the topic of beauty and irony--I see incredible shots everywhere in Hallomajra, ironic since its people are so poor in comparison to other parts of the city. Poverty persists, but more often I am in awe at the energy and light and color. For every photo I take, there are probably 20 others that catch my eye, mango sellers or kids or women washing clothes, and I itch to capture it. But it's so critical to remember that this is someone's routine, someone's life...and there must be respect for that privacy. I hope I've been accomplishing that...

"Hey, Dog! Are you veg?"

Hey hey,

So, another bit of time has passed and I'm again overwhelmed by how much I want to share.
Lots of photos, because I am a fiend like that, but I do think they can describe much more than I ever could in words.
We spent last weekend in Dharamsala, better known as the hometown of the Dalai Lama. Actually, a neighboring village called McLeod Ganj is actually his home, but it's only a walk away from the center of Dharamsala. So I have photos of that, plus more of Chandigarh, my lovely friends here, and of Hallomajra and Ramdarbar, the below-poverty slum/village areas where I've been working.
And the title? First note that India is fabulous for vegetarians--I've had little meat since being here, and it's great--there are always "veg" options. My beloved buddy Ganda, who is a remarkable human being, tried feeding a stray dog a BBQ flavored Pringles potato chip in Dharamsala. The dog sniffed it and walked away. Ganda, frustrated that his generous offering had been rejected so, yelled out vehemently, "Hey, dog! Are you veg? Huh?! ARE YOU VEG?!"

Oh, India. And Indonesians. I love both.
xo angie

DHARAMSALA and MCLEOD GANJ
(ahem. dedicated to a certain em who will be studying abroad there...whooo!)

Dharamsala's streets--I like the animals. :) And there were fantastic mountain views, it made me miss Boulder, since Chandigarh is about as flat as it gets.

The Dalai Lama's monestary. What struck a chord with me the most is the fact that they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner to everyone there, no matter who you are. We didn't have lunch, but saw dal (lentils) and rice being scooped out of these huge buckets. It's such a show of human generosity--we did get to take part the next morning at 6:30 am with Tibetan bread and butter tea (um, not recommended...the tea, that is). Fun fact: LOTS of monks wear crocs. Red ones, at that (see, Billington, you're such a trendsetter!).

If I'm ever back in Dharamsala for more than a week, I'm going to take their paper mache workshop. It is AMAZING and so beautiful what they can make from just paper--bracelets, vases, cups, boxes, ornaments, thimbles...and my favorite...ELEPHANTS. Dharamsala also has its own recycled paper workshop that sells absolutely stunning traditionally bound books and journals made by Tibetan refugees...too bad we weren't there during the week, it wasn't open for tours on the weekend. :(

My friend Nith at a temple we came across. The entire place was covered in Tibetan prayer flags--and its incredibly peaceful and beautiful. The best part of the weekend was that my friend Sander and I had dinner with a Tibetan refugee named Samten and his 3 friends. They made us traditional Tibetan noodles as he shared his story of crossing into Nepal and finally into India. The next day, when we went to the historical Tibet Museum, we both remembered Samten's descriptions as we read about all the violence and pain...and it made it all much more real and tangible to us.

RAMDARBAR and HALLOMAJRA

The girl next to me in pink is Sonia, a 17 year old who has been helping us gather women and interview them. She's been so sweet--constantly making me tea, feeding me chicken curry, dressing me up (as you can see!), and teaching me useful Hindi phrases. In blue is her sister Monika and then her mother in the orange. Every time I go to Ramdarbar, they shower me with hospitality.

Just one view from the SURYA office in Hallomajra, a slum.

I love this photo of Sonia, her blue dupatta, her long black hair, and the brick wall.

Hallomajra's streets, and exceptionally beautiful saris.

Laundry hung out to dry. But check out those colors...!!

Great afternoon light, deep shadows especially on the fabric. It reminds me of a Caravaggio painting (dedicated to Kathy, because we are not creepy).

Just a fruit stand in Hallomajra. But the little boy was just sitting there, without anyone around. It's still shocking to me how many kids there are, running around, holding their infant siblings, selling things or working. It's summer now, so none are in school--but still so many of the kids in Hallomajra can't afford school, and end up working from a young age.

Twinkle and Sonia, women I work with, waiting for our gate to be unlocked. That funky red and yellow pattern on the upper right hand corner is the SURYA office in Hallomajra.

This is what happens when it rains. And what we had to get across!! My feet had a nice mud bath.

Repetition never hurts, aesthetically speaking.

At Hallomajra, waiting for government rations of rice and other staples.

A stack of SURYA's case studies, which I read (most of them are written in English) and took notes on. They're giving me fantastic material for future papers or research. Since most of the slum-dwellers are illiterate, SURYA staff write up their testimonials and then the victims authenticate it with a thumb print.

CHANDIGARH

The view from the little balcony outside our room (third floor). There are always kids running around, usually playing cricket. They really love saying "Hello!" to us, but conversation usually lulls after that...

Look at these beautiful people. :) From left to right, Keigo from Japan (who is literally traveling AROUND the world after this summer for one year), Nithin from Chapel Hill (we like the Celtics, right?), Sander from Holland, Ganda from Indonesia, Pauline again from Belgium, Piero from Brazil, and JC, our devoted Indian @er who makes sure we never get ripped off.

The Domestic Violence Survey

The survey was written by a previous intern, comprised of 63 questions, some with at least 5 sub-questions--so it was about 100 questions long. Long and repetitive.
So, it's been revised-and here it is!
I'm really excited to go out and pilot the new version, I see a lot of potential for it, and it recently occurred to me that it is SO cool that in a few months I will have my own data...and that I can use my OWN data in my OWN papers!! Oh, Academia. How you surprise me.

SURYA Foundation

Survey on Domestic Violence

Demographic Data

1. Name and age
2. Residence
3. Profession
4. Marital status
1. If married, love marriage or arranged?
2. How long have you been married?
3. Joint or nuclear family?
5. Children
1. Age and gender

General Mental Well-Being

6. How much are the following statements applicable to you on a scale of 1 to 5? (1=totally not applicable; 2=not applicable; 3=neutral; 4=applicable; 5=totally applicable)
1. I feel at home in my house
2. I feel appreciated by my husband
3. I feel appreciated by my in-laws
4. I feel appreciated by my children
5. I am in control over my own health
6. I can make financial decisions
7. I have a good relationship with my husband
8. I have a good relationship with my in-laws
9. I have a good relationship with my children
10. I feel free to do what I really want

Husband

If a woman is not married, skip questions 7 to 26.

7. Do you have any problems with your husband?
8. Is your husband angry often?
9. What are the most common reasons over which he is angry?
10. Does he ever shout at you or call you names?
11. How do you respond when he shouts or calls you names?
12. Do you tell anyone about the shouting/name-calling?
13. Does he threaten you when he is angry?
1. What are the threats about? (i.e. dowry, baby boy, etc.)
2. How do you respond to these threats?

14. Does he hurt you? If so…
1. How does he hurt you?
2. How often does the hurting occur?
3. Is he always hurting you in particular moments, like after coming home from work, or late at night?
4. What is the reason for the hurting?
5. Do you think the hurting is justified?
6. How do you respond to him hurting you?
7. Do you tell anyone about the hurting?
8. Did you ever need medical attention after being hurt by your husband? If so…

i. Did you get the medical attention?

ii. Where did you go for the medical attention?

15. Does your husband ever complain to you about not doing a good job in housekeeping?
16. Does he ever complain about how you raise the children?
17. Does he ever complain that you ask for too much money?
18. Does he ever complain about your family?
19. Does he ever complain about the dowry?
20. Are there any other topics that he complains about to you?
21. How do you respond to these complaints?
22. Do you think these complaints are justified?

23. What is your husband’s profession?
24. Does he earn enough money?
25. Does your husband drink? If so…
1. Does he drink at home?
2. Does he come home drunk?
3. Do you know why he drinks?
4. Is he shouting, complaining, or hurting you more after drinking?
5. Is his drinking problematic? If so…

i. Have you or your husband ever asked for help for his drinking problem?

26. Does your husband like another woman? If so…
1. Does he know that you are aware of this?
2. Have you ever discussed this with him?
3. Do you ever fight about this (verbal and/or physical)?

In-laws/Parents

If the woman is not married, and still living at her parents’ home, ask questions 27 to 32 about her parents instead of her in-laws. If the woman is living in a nuclear family, skip questions 27 to 32.

27. Do you have any problems with your in-laws/parents? If so…
1. With whom do you have problems?
2. What are the problems about? (i.e. children, housekeeping, asking for too much money, personal character, dowry, etc.)
28. Do you think the basis for these problems are justified?
29. Does any one of your in-laws/parents shout at you or call you names? If so…
1. What are they shouting about or what names do they call you?
2. Do you tell anyone about the shouting/name-calling?
30. Does any one of your in-laws threaten you? (i.e. about the dowry or having a baby boy) If so…
1. How do you respond to these threats?
2. Do you think these threats are justified?

31. Does any one of your in-laws/parents physically hurt you? If so…
1. Who hurts you?
2. How do they hurt you?
3. How often does the hurting occur?
4. Are they always hurting you in particular moments, like after coming home from work, or late at night?
5. What is the reason for the hurting?
6. Do you think the hurting is justified?
7. How do you respond to them hurting you?
8. Do you tell anyone about the hurting?
9. Did you ever need medical attention after being hurt?

i. If so, did you get the medical attention?

ii. Where did you go for the medical attention?

32. Does any one of your in-laws/parents drink? If so…
1. Do they drink at home?
2. Do they come home drunk?
3. Do you know why they drink?
4. Is he/she shouting, complaining, or hurting you more after drinking?
5. Is his drinking problematic? If so…
6. Have you or your husband ever asked for help for his drinking problem?

Own Children

If the woman does not have her own children, skip question 33.

33. Do you have any problems with your children? If so…
1. What kinds of problems do you have?
2. How do you respond to these problems?
3. Do you think the basis for these problems are justified?

Help-seeking Behavior

34. Have you ever sought help for any of your family problems? If so…
1. What kind of help did you get? (i.e. medical, financial, counseling, psychological)
2. Where did you seek help?
3. How did you know about this person/organization?
4. Was the help useful?
35. Do you need any help right now for any current family problems?
36. Have you ever heard of the SURYA Foundation?
37. Would you accept help from SURYA in the future if you needed it?

Women's Advocacy Out of a Shoestore

Today was Day 3 on the job, and it's been an experience already.
For background, I'm working for the SURYA Foundation, which stands for Survival of Youth and Adolescent. My boss is a gynecologist who began the Foundation with a slew of others to better serve women and children in India, focusing on women's advocacy along with health education, family counseling, career counseling for girls, awareness campaigns, HIV/AIDS education, etc.
The two women I work directly with are both family counselors, both highly educated and progressive and strong, independent individuals. They've given me great insight into gender hierarchy in India and expectations for women, but it's still mindblowing to me to hear about some of the norms and standards that still exist.
One controversial topic right now is about a murder that happened a month ago. A father and his servant conspired and killed his 15 year old daughter, and the mother now is still siding with the father. One of the SURYA staff members explained it like this to me. She said, "In India, everyone still believes the husband is god..." People are appalled that the father did it...and also that the mother is still standing by him. But others support the mother, since she's acting out her traditional wifely duty.
Dr. Sharma, the founder, told me something that also reiterated this concept of a wife's societal expectations. The concept of "marital rape" does not exist in India. A wife, forced by her husband to perform physical, sexual acts, has no protection at all legally or socially, as the rights of the husband in marriage include his wife's sexual submissiveness. India is growing rapidly, economically and otherwise, but it still has a long way to go in terms of basic women's rights to her body and her right to protect it.
My work now surrounds a survey that was developed by a past intern about domestic violence. We've revised it and piloted it with some women, and will continue to do so. My stats and research methods professors would be so proud--we were talking some nice "sample size" and "comparative studies" lingo. That's my PAM education at work, huh?
For the past three days, we've been in Hallomajra, a slum outside of Chandigarh. Everyone is surprised to hear a slum even exists here...but it does indeed.
It brings out a lot of emotions to spend time in a place like Hallomajra, and I am constantly sad and disturbed and then impressed and overwhelmed by the community and camaraderie that exists there. Of course, the children are full of that summer bliss that you can only possess between the ages of 6 and 16, when summer equates freedom and ice cream and all good things (internationally).
They rarely, if ever, see foreigners, so adults and kids alike are curious about what I'm doing and why I'm there...But everyone has been so friendly, offering tea and a seat, their hospitality and the few English phrases they know. Sonia, a 17 year old girl, has become a new friend quickly, even though our conversations are rather limited...she does know, though, that I really enjoyed the chai and samosas she brought for me today.
Right after we got there on my first day, we went to meet the shoestore owner, and sat in the store chatting with him. SURYA partners with various people across the community, and this is how they secure their referrals and spread the name of the organization. Using public places that are run by local community members allows SURYA to be more accepted within the slum as an ally, not an outsider.
So it was in that shoestore that I had my palm read, my head patted by some old Indian ladies, and then where I helped conduct our first interviews of 5 women, between the ages of 17 and 28. Questions including topics of dowry, housework, husband's anger, psychological abuse, in-laws, feelings of self-worth, and more. It is ridiculous to me that I'm here doing this, after spending so much time reading and researching it all last semester.
Oh, I wrote a term paper in May on an education program called SSA for girls in India to combat illiteracy. Today on TV, just on the regular public channel, it flashed the logo of the program SSA, Sarva Shiksha Abhiyan, followed by a load of Hindi. That was a nice little moment of realizing that I am here, doing this, and learning so much more than I ever would have back home.

It was also from that shoestore that I saw this shot, which to me captures India in a single photograph: the poverty, the dust and the heat, children always in corners hiding or peeking out. But also, again, the colors are so present, the vibrant culture and history, the beauty of it all mixed together. This is probably my favorite picture to date, because it's so imprinted in my head. The girls playing on that broken bike as the orange-red sari floated with the wind. Maybe 20 minutes later, the sari flew to the ground and a toddler picked it up, yards of fabric in her small arms. And today, when I was back in that store looking at this exact view, there wasn't anything against the wall. That made me feel like I'd caught a fleeting moment, there one second and then gone again.

Maybe tomorrow the sari will be back up on the wall.